Fredericksburg Parent Magazine

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The Natural Nurturer
Helping Moms, Dads, Grandparents, and all Caregivers make educated organic decisions

Food for Thought, Part II:
Locally Raised Animal Products Are the Cream of the Crop

by Sarah Winfrey


Say "hello" to Rosie. She's an "organic free-range" chicken, raised by Petaluma Farms in California and sold at Whole Foods stores in a package depicting a charming farm scene. What's wrong with this picture? Rosie doesn't ever see the farm. She spends her seven-week life with twenty thousand other inmates (oops, "mates") inside a shed stinking of ammonia. Rosie does dine on organic feed and isn't caged, but how misleading is the package? How healthy are genetically engineered birds confined to a rank environment? What are the environmental effects of such farming?

This article isn't about animals' rights (well, not necessarily), but consumers' rights to know what they eat. (It's also not for the faint of heart.) It's about teaching children appreciation and respect for our sustenance, feeding our families healthy products, and supporting the local economy while protecting the global environment.

The Rosie's actually have pretty good lives compared to their non-free-range counterparts. (See this explanation of package labels.) Most industrial animal food production takes place on factory farms called concentrated animal feeding operations, or CAFOs. Steven L. Hopp, researcher and Emory and Henry environmental studies professor, elaborates in his wife Barbara Kingsolver's 2007 "Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life." "If you can envision one thousand chickens in your bathroom, in cages stacked to the ceiling, you're honestly getting the picture." Michael Pollan in his 2006 "The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals." Pollan, Rosie's biographer, writes "one of the most troubling things about factory farms is how cavalierly they flout…evolutionary rules, forcing animals to overcome deeply ingrained aversions." We all know the old adage "you are what you eat."

The health of an animal translates to the health of its eater. Barbara Kingsolver's collegiate daughter Camille highlights nutritional differences between grass and corn fed cattle in "Animal, Vegetable, Miracle." Grass-fed livestock have lower saturated fat levels, and contain more vitamin E, beta-carotene, and omega 3's, a deficiency of which can result in extreme fatigue, poor memory, dry skin, heart problems, mood swings or depression, and poor circulation, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center (UMM). UMM also mentions children suffering from ADHD or asthma show some improvement with an increase in Omega 3 intake (see http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/omega-3-000316.htm).

More omega 3's are also found in eggs from chickens that ranged openly on green pastures. These eggs have more vitamin E, beta-carotene, and half the cholesterol (and that's primarily LDL, the "good for you" cholesterol) of CAFO eggs. Pollan sums all this up: "by raising millions of animals in close confinement, by feeding those animals foods they never evolved to eat…we are taking risks with our health and the health of the natural world that are unprecedented."

What are the risks of concentrated animal feeding operations to the natural world? "CAFO animals in the United States produce about six times the volume of fecal matter of all humans (emphasis added) on our planet," states Steven L. Hopp. In fact, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has shown that this fecal matter contains pollutants that can migrate into nearby soil and water, including antibiotics, pathogens (parasites, bacteria, viruses), nutrients (i.e.: ammonia, nitrogen, phosphorus), pesticides and hormones, solids (feeds and feathers), and trace elements (such as arsenic and copper). (Visit http://www.cdc.gov/cafos/about.htm). Animals raised on pasture simply improve the soil. Additionally, Michael Pollan marvels that, "the typical item of food on an American's plate travels some fifteen hundred miles to get there, and is frequently better traveled…than its eater." Consider the petroleum alone saved by purchasing local animal products.

Smaller farming operations that sell food to a local market often practice better animal husbandry, and this has the effect of skipping a stone into a lake. Rippling out from conscientious production are animals that are healthy psychologically and physically, eaters that enjoy maximal nutritional benefits, and an earth that is a little less tread on. But don't take my word for it; ask the farmer yourself. "Instead of looking at labels, the local food customer will look at the farm for himself, or look the farmer in the eye and ask him about he…treats his animals," emphasizes Michael Pollan. Besides the "feel good" effect of such shopping, "buying your goods from local businesses rather than national chains generates about three times as much money for your local economy," admonishes Barbara Kingsolver, and that means more money for local schools, parks, and community improvements. Not to mention that farms beautify and preserve our landscapes. Those are some ripples.

Industrial farming practices produce spiritually and nutritionally inferior food, and cast an environmental shadow over future generations by damaging the earth's soil and water. Shopping for locally raised animal products benefits every being involved in the equation. Animals live better, people live better. Buying from area farmers affords the opportunity to teach our families about respect, accountability, and gratitude. And when your child asks questions about the "Rosie" on her dinner plate, you can truthfully tell her it lived a good life and is providing a healthy meal. So don't wait for the cows come home; try some local animal products today.

 

Sarah Winfrey is a freelance writer, birth doula, and mother of two in Spotsylvania. Contact fredericksburg_doula@yahoo.com.

Where Can I Find Real Milk?
A list of raw milk sources in Virginia: http://www.realmilk.com/where5.html#va
 

Local Farms/Farmer's Markets

The following local farms have not been evaluated by the writer for the health or humanity of their practices. Readers should decide what their family is looking for, and use the following resources to find a local farm that meets those requirements. Always call ahead to verify hours and product availability. Farmers Markets listed are often a good source of eggs and meats as well.

Alexandria

The Alexandria Farmer's Market runs every Saturday all year, from 5am-10:30am, at Market Square in Old Town, 301 King Street. Go for fresh eggs and cheeses, and Babes in the Wood rare breed, forest-fed pork. (forestfed.com)

Caroline

The Bowling Green Community Farmers Market is held Saturday's 8am-noon in the Chase Street Town Parking Lot (across from the intersection with Ennis Street). Late May or June the Market will also open Tuesday's, 3-7pm (hours vary based on community and vendor needs).

Phillips Organic Farm, 12418 Ladysmith Road in Ruther Glen, sells eggs. Contact Caryn for details. 804-448-0182, phillipsorganicfarm.org/

14 Green Ache'rs Farm, 13479 Stonewall Jackson Road in Woodford, sells chickens, turkeys, and eggs. Customers pick out their bird of choice for slaughter at the farm. Turkeys will be ready for Thanksgiving. Eggs are sold at the farm, by private delivery, and at the Farmers Market on Saturdays. Call for product availability (and farmer availability!) before going. 804-633-2194, 14greenachersfarm.com/

Culpeper

Croftburn Farm Meats, 16190 Germanna Highway, offers grass-fed, pasture-raised, and grain-finished natural beef and sheep raised without of hormones or antibiotics. Croftburn adheres to Humane Standards of Treatment. Approximately 27 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-825-9044, croftburnfarm.com

Pannill's Gate Farm, 25325 Old Office Road, sells "Back to Basics" beef fed solely on grass, with steers that never enter a feedlot. Approximately 27 miles from Fredericksburg. Contact Patty Johnson. 540-423-1168

Everona Dairy, 23246 Clarks Mountain Road in Rapidan, makes award winning, aged, washed-rind, and unpasteurized sheep's milk cheese. Over five varieties are usually available, as well as freezer lambs (call for price and availability). Store open Friday-Sunday, 1:00-5:00pm. Approximately 28 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-854-4159, everonadairy.com

Cibola Farms, 10075 Stone Bridge Rd, practices sustainable agriculture and raises buffalo, free-range pork, grass range poultry (with egg production), and goats. Approximately 39 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-727-8590, cibolafarms.com

Retreat Farm, 28276 Rapidan Road in Rapidan, utilizes sustainable farming practices in the production of pastured beef, lamb and eggs. Village Depot, the off-farm store, is open Wednesday to Friday 12noon-6pm and SAT 10am-2pm. Approximately 39 miles from Fredericksburg. Contact Cindy Gillan. 540-672-5871

Fauquier County

Over the Grass Farm, 3370 Whitewood Rd in The Plains, offers grass-finished beef and lamb, milk through the Cow Share program, and eggs. Approximately 58 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-253-5228, www.overthegrassfarm.com

Fredericksburg

The Fredericksburg Farmers Market is open year-round and held at Hurkamp Park, at William and Prince Edwards Streets. Look for sellers (attendance varies) Monday through Saturday 6am-6pm. Vendors include Papa Weaver's Pork (papaweaver.com/about.htm,) and sellers with fresh-caught fish and shellfish.

Hanover

Shadow Walk Farm, 18362 Old Ridge Road in Montpelier, offers grass-fed beef raised without steroids, growth hormones, or antibiotics. USDA inspected processing. Awarded Virginia's Finest distinction. Approximately 39 miles from Fredericksburg. Contact Ardie Browne. 804-883-7555

King George

Canning Farm, 15057 Canning Way, is a family farm that grows beef cattle, hogs, and chickens, with production focused on sustainable practices. Contact Miles Hastings for more information. 540-775-9358

Orange County

Kush-Hara Farm, 29227 General Rodes Lane in Rhoadesville, has over fifty top-quality milking goats. Approximately 20 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-854-7114, www.kushhara.com

Gryffon's Aerie, 8205 James Madison Hwy in Gordonsville, offers grass fed heritage breeds of beef, lamb, and natural pork. Approximately 44 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-967-5632, gryffonsaerie.com

Rappahannock

Belle Meade Farm, 353 F.T. Valley Road in Sperryville, raises pastured cows, pigs, chickens, laying hens, and turkeys without hormones or antibiotics. Approximately 50 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-987-9748, http://www.bellemeadeinn.com/index.php

Mount Vernon Farm, 206 Mount Vernon Lane in Sperryville, offers grass-fed beef and lamb, and pastured pork. Animals are raised without growth hormones, vaccines, and antibiotics. Approximately 52 miles from Fredericksburg. 540-987-9559, www.mountvernonfarm.net

Touchstone Farm, 140 Touchstone Lane in Amissville, is the first sheep farm in the country to be Certified Humane. Approximately 53 miles from Fredericksburg. touchstonefarm.org

Spotsylvania

Farmers Markets run the last Saturday in April to the Saturday prior to Christmas. The Wednesday Market at the Holbert Building (near the courthouse) is open 3pm-7pm. Both that location and the commuter lot Market (at Route 3 and Gordon Road) are open Saturdays 8am-1pm. Look for Valentines Country Meat and Marshall Farms Natural Cheese (marshallscheese.com).

Hazel Hill Farm, 10101 Catharpin Road, sells eggs, and naturally raised pasture-fed livestock and poultry, working in harmony with the land. Call for an appointment and availability. 540-972-0662, hazelhill.org

Miller Farms Market, 12101 Orange Plank Road, sells free-range chicken eggs. 540-972-2680, millerfarmsmarket.com

Snead's Asparagus Farm, 18294 Tidewater Trail, sells free-range chicken eggs. The roadside stand is open daily 8am-6pm, early May through Labor Day, late September through Halloween Eve, and Thanksgiving to Christmas Eve. Call ahead for availability, or to schedule pickup at the farm. 540-371-9328

Stafford

The Stafford Farmers Market, in the commuter lot behind McDonald's on Staffordoro Road, is open Saturdays and Sundays, April 17 through October 31, 7am-2pm.

Westmoreland

Starting Over Farm, 3156 Kings Highway, is small-scale farm raising organic goats, beef, sheep, chickens, Jersey cows for milk, and Alpine goats for milk. Contact Paul Quirk. 804-224-6162

Understanding Food Labels, As Defined by the United States Department of Agriculture

Free-range: Poultry that has been allowed access to the outside.
Free-roaming: Poultry that has been allowed access to the outside.
Natural: A product containing no artificial ingredient or added color that is only minimally processed (a process which does not fundamentally alter the raw product).
Organic: Animals fed organic feed and given access to the outdoors. They are given no antibiotics or growth hormones.

(Sources: www.fsis.usda.gov/Fact_Sheets/Meat_&_Poultry_Labeling_Terms/index.asp, www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELDEV3004443&acct=nopgeninfo)